This quick guide will tell you everything you need to know about what prop slip is, what causes it, how to fix it, and how to easily calculate exactly how much a prop is slipping.

P.S. – If you’re investigating outboard prop slip, also check out our guide to the signs and symptoms that an outboard isn’t at the optimal height.

What is Prop Slip?

Prop slip occurs when a prop fails to achieve its power potential. This is due to resistance from the water that prop is working to propel the boat through. As the prop endures the resistance, it tends to slide back and does not go the actual full distance in that one revolution. The prop takes a shorter path and that shorter distance is called the prop slip.

Many people use the example of the screw to illustrate what is meant by prop slip. The screw head is turned one full revolution. The distance the screw head turns in that one revolution is the actual distance the screw head has to go to make one complete revolution. This one turn is called the pitch.

This example falls short because the screw has no resistance applied to its performance. You just turn the screw and it enters the piece of wood. No problem and no real resistance holding the screw back.

Since a boat propeller turns, it also has an actual distance to go before it makes one complete revolution. That distance or revolution is also called the pitch. That is where the similarity ends. Unlike the screw, the boat prop has real resistance and the pitch is measured slightly differently.

The pitch of a propeller is measured by the actual distance the propeller moves the boat after one revolution. For example, an 20-inch pitch prop should move the boat 20 inches in the water with each revolution. Prop slip will reduce that distance.

Note: It’s important to understand that a slipping prop is not the same thing as a spun prop.

Causes of Prop Slip

Prop slip happens to every propeller and how much slip you experience depends more on the design of the prop than on the drag of the water. It would be easy to always blame this issue solely on the amount of drag the water places on your prop but that would not be the best answer.

This is why many boat owners switch props when they are not satisfied with the performance of their boats. They want less prop slip so that they get better fuel efficiency and enhanced overall performance.

Some props are designed to produce only 10 to 20% slip while others create more and those types of props lower the fuel efficiency. There are other factors involved as well.

For example, the condition of the propeller would contribute to a great prop slip if the propeller was in bad shape.

Other factors include:

1. Speed
2. Weight
3. Weight Distribution
4. Hull Design
5. Condition of the hull
6. Engine mount height
7. Engine angle

How Prop Slip Affects Performance

Prop slip has a direct negative affect on speed and fuel efficiency. This is a delicate topic though, as some prop slip is actually required to move forward. Without prop slip, you have no thrust.

The goal of enhancing your performance and fuel efficiency does not lie in eliminating prop slip altogether. It lies in reducing that slip to the lowest amount possible.

What makes it difficult to do this objective is that there is no constant rate of prop slip. The only constant you have with prop slip is that it is always changing. The faster you go, the lower the prop slip and vice versa.

Then it is impossible to find the perfect prop for every boat hull and design, etc. Everything is done through trial and error. Even the experts cannot find the perfect propeller for your boat or every situation it will encounter.

There are propeller calculators on the internet that will help you make adjustments. Just do not use them expecting to get perfect results for your boat. To help you find the right prop, with the best percentage of prop slip you do need the help of propeller specialists though.

You will also need a lot of data and a few mathematical equations to figure out how large a percentage you have in your prop slip.

How to Know if Prop Slip is Occurring

This is actually the simplest issue of all issues that relate to this subject. If you are not moving anywhere in the water, then you have no prop slip. prop slip happens with all boat propellers no matter their design.

Without it, you would have no thrust and that is not a good thing. Even if you are going at top speed, you will experience some prop slip. It won’t be much as the faster you go the lower the prop slip.

To get an idea of how much prop slip you are getting, take a look at the design of your prop. A well-designed propeller will reach up to 20% or less. A badly designed prop will produce even more prop slip. This means changing your propeller will help you lower the prop slip and improve the performance of your boat’s motor.

You do not need to know or identify that prop slip is taking place. It is. What you need to figure out is how much slippage is taking place and if that percentage can be improved upon.

Formula for Calculating Prop Slip

Figuring out your percentage of prop slip is actually fairly simple. We can use a few simple numbers and measurements to nail down a relatively precise percentage.

Here’s a step-by-step of a simple formula for calculating prop slip:

1. Theoretical Speed = (Revolutions Per Minute ÷ Gear Ratio) × (Pitch ÷ 1056)
2. Prop Efficiency = (Actual Speed ÷ Theoretical Speed)
3. Percentage of Prop Slip = (100% – Prop Efficiency)

It’s that simple!

This formula is an easy DIY and can be a lifesaver when you’re pulling your hair out trying to figure out whether or not you’re dealing with a significant propeller issue.

Final Thoughts

The one thing you need to remember is that you cannot have zero prop slip. If you achieve that low percentage then you won’t be traveling anywhere. The goal is to reduce that percentage to its slowest level while maintaining proper thrust.

This is the optimal point you should strive for.

Check the design of your prop to see if it is well-designed and, if not, change it. Then make sure to distribute the weight aboard your boat so that the prop has less resistance to worry about.

This quick guide will cover all of the pros and cons of these motors, common problems, troubleshooting and how-to’s for fixing them.

Generally, the Yamaha 115 4-Stroke is one of the most reliable, versatile, and efficient outboards available for mid-range boats. No motor is perfect, but this motor is known for being one of the most problem-free options on the market.

First released to great acclaim in 1999 it immediately impressed boating enthusiasts, quickly becoming the go to choice for all mid range sporting and fishing craft from among the F-Series motors that range from 2.5 Horsepower up to an incredible 350 Horsepower.

Despite the solid reputation of its first design, Yamaha went above and beyond the call of duty by upgrading the motor in 2014, improving on the intake and labyrinth exhaust systems allowing it to deliver even better performance while simultaneously suppressing noise levels.

The entire Yamaha F-Series range of outboard motors are beautifully designed and engineered with precision and a serious attention to practicality and power. This gives you market-leading performance with (ideally) few technical or engine problems over many years of use.

Yamaha 115 4-Stroke Pros And Cons

Pros:

• Massively reliable outboard motor that you can trust to have your back in the water
• Flexible warranty that can be transferred to future owners if you choose to further upgrade or sell your motor
• Explosive power and unbeatable performance
• Easy to maintain and service, which helps to extend the motor’s working life
• Amazing fuel economy that provides excellent value for money
• The electric fuel injection system perfectly measures the fuel to optimize engine performance

Cons:

• At nearly 400 pounds the motor is fairly heavy for its category
• The Yamaha 115 4-stroke is a little on the expensive side but its popularity speaks for itself

Common Yamaha 115 4-Stroke Problems & Troubleshooting

Although Yamaha 115 4-stroke motors are superbly designed and well-engineered, you can still run into occasional problems. There’s not really any single standout problem with these engines though. The vast majority of potential issues are simple and easy to solve with the right practical knowledge.

Carbon Buildup

Yamaha has always been known for designing engines made to run hard at high RPM’s. The 115 4-stroke is yet another example of this.

Carbon buildup can be a potential problem if a Yamaha 115 is operated solely at low RPM’s. This is a minor potential problem and it can be solved by simply opening up the throttle and letting the outboard run.

Again, hardly an issue, but it’s definitely worth mentioning for anyone who is in the market for or currently owns this motor.

There’s Too Much Vibration

Another common Yamaha 115 4-stroke motor problem is excessive vibration which can lead to further issues with your motor. This is usually caused by the propeller which may have been damaged while you were out on the water. If your propeller is damaged then you should get it replaced before you take your boat out again.

There could also be debris from the water trapped in the propeller, such as plastic rubbish or seaweed that’s got tangled in it. If there is then just remove it before you start the engine. One the other hand, if your propeller is looking in good condition then just give the mounting bolts of the motor a good tighten with a wrench to ensure that it’s properly attached.

Outboard height can also play a role in vibration. Take a look at our guide to outboard height to find out if yours is too high or too low.

If you still experience significant vibrations you should contact a professional to take a look for you.

The Starter Isn’t Engaging

Issues with the starter is a complaint that you may have with your Yamaha 115 outboard motor, with the engine not engaging correctly. This is usually a result of a fault in the electrical system, such as a blown fuse. If you’re having trouble starting your outboard then the first thing you should do is to unscrew the cover and then extract the fuse holder with electrical pliers.

Following the removal of the fuse you simply need to check to see if the connection in the center of the fuse is broken; and if it is, you’ll need to replace it with a new one.

Don’t forget to replace it with a new fuse that has the same amperage or it will immediately blow again. It’s always worth having a few spare fuses handy so you can quickly replace it without having to wait for a mail order delivery to arrive.

If you’ve checked the fuse and it’s still intact then you’ll have to check the battery next, which is the other most likely reason for having problems with the starter.

To safely replace the battery you should disconnect the negative and then the positive cable, and then using a wire brush you should clean off any corrosion or other debris that has built up on the battery terminals. You can also use a mixture of water and baking soda to give it a thorough clean, again, using your wire brush.

Once you’ve cleaned the terminals you should reconnect the cables, remembering to start with the positive and then the negative cables after carefully drying the terminals with a fresh towel.

After you’ve recharged the battery to its full capacity and replaced it in its housing, the engine should start with ease.

The Engine Is Not Starting Or Running Properly

Another issue that you might find yourself facing is that the engine is not starting properly or it’s running at a less than optimal level. This is usually nothing to worry about though and a few simple checks will generally root out the cause of the problem.

Firstly, you should give your fuel levels a quick check. If you find that you’re running low on fuel then you just need to give it a top up with the right gasolene for your motor.

If the fuel levels are okay then you need to check that the system’s fuel lines are not damaged or leaking. This is extremely important and if you find that your fuel lines are leaking or even slightly damaged then you should switch off the engine immediately and then contact a professional to get them repaired before you try to use your outboard motor again.

Next, if your fuel lines are intact and there’s enough fuel in the tank, you should check the oil levels. Make sure the engine is sitting in an upright position and then remove the cap from your oil filler.

Using the dipstick, check the oil levels and if you find that it is underneath the ‘L’ marker then give it a refill. On the other hand, if the oil is above the ‘H’ marker then you need to remove the excess with an oil syringe.

Lastly, you should check your spark plugs. Remove these, using a wrench, and check to see that they are not cracked or burnt out. If they are, you’ll have to replace them. If they look okay then give them a clean and reinstall them and you should be ready to go!

Final Recommendations

Most of the problems that you’ll face are very easy to fix and usually just takes a few simple adjustments, basic replacements of simple parts or a top up of fuel or oil.

However, it’s extremely important to remember that if you’re unsure about what the problem is then you should always contact a professional to give your motor a look over. This is because damaged fuel lines and other internal issues can be dangerous and so you always want to be 100% sure that your motor is working properly before you get out on the water.

However, as a quick glance through the customer reviews of the Yamaha 115 4-stroke outboard motor will tell you, they are a fantastic choice for boating enthusiasts; and with flexible warranties available and an excellent working life you’ll get superb value for your money.

All 4-stroke motors are are known for their compact sizes, great fuel economy, and outstanding versatility. The classic Yamaha 115 4-stroke outboard is definitely one of the world’s favorite models and an ideal choice for all sorts of runabout vessels, middle sized boats, bass boats (if you’re in the market for a bass boat, take a look at our list of current favorites), and bowriders; boasting the strength to reliably take on choppy ocean waters and even high waves.

Unfortunately, there’s not a one-size-fits-all answer. Rules, regulations, and potential exceptions vary from state to state and things can get a bit confusing. This is where most of the confusion springs up.

Some people fear that they’ll encounter hefty fines or even jail time. Thankfully, you’ll find that most of the more extreme worries are unfounded.

This guide will help you find the information you need to make the right call. We’ve also included links to each states’ government resources for trailer title/registration laws.

Some legal jargon, before we dig in: This article is meant to be a helpful resource, not legal advice. Always independently verify the laws and regulations directly with your local government.

Does My Trailer Need a License Plate?

Whether or not your trailer needs a plate is almost totally dependent on the state you live in. As a rule, it’s safe to assume that a plate is required unless certain exceptions are met.

You may be exempt from a trailer license plate under these circumstances:

Exemption #1: Recently Purchased Trailer

If your trailer is newly bought, you don’t need to worry about driving it home without a license plate because you can instead show its bill of sale.

Any verified copy of the bill of sale can take the place of a license plate in just about every state.

This is why if you decide to take your tagless trailer for a ride, assuming it’s freshly purchased, don’t forget to always have your bill of sale available on hand. Some owners even decide to put it on the actual spot intended for the license plate, which also works.

Exemption #2: Trailer Use & Type

Some states, like North Carolina, for example, give exemptions to certain types of trailers. If it’s a trailer that’s used primarily for hauling items from farms like vegetables, farming implements, tobacco, or even livestock, it can be towed without a license.

The same can be said for trailers that are used to tow other vehicles (tow dollies). Even certain trailers that come from nearby states (e.g. South Carolina, where most types of trailers aren’t required to be registered) are often also given a free pass.

Trailer Registration & License Plate Laws by State

The following list includes links to government websites’ resources for all fifty states’ (and District of Columbia’s) trailer registration and license plate laws:

The .gov sites listed here are reputable government websites, but you should always double check that the information they provide is up-to-date.

Potential Penalties

It also wouldn’t hurt to be aware of the possible pitfalls once you end up getting caught for towing a trailer without a license plate.

This is one sure way of convincing people to avoid taking the risk of towing their trailers sans license plate, which happens to be done on a fairly consistent basis in the US.

Most just keep their fingers crossed and do get away with it, while others aren’t as fortunate which is often the case. In such scenarios, it’s likely that the worst you can expect is a ticket.

Some officers are more lenient and might let you go off with a warning, and you should consider yourself lucky if you encounter them.

Furthermore, you also shouldn’t even consider trying to replace a temporary alternative plate on it, which some people have been found guilty of doing. This could mean a more serious offense (and a larger fine). We’d like to assert that it’s surely not worth all the immense hassle it will cause.

Always err on the side of caution, taking the extra moment to ensure that you’re abiding by local laws and regulations.

Trailer Lighting

Upon taking a look at most states’ guidelines, you’ll find that most of the emphasis is placed on other factors like lighting and brakes.

It’s a given in any state, for instance, that your trailer must have working taillights. Each state also even has its own specific brake laws.

A lot of states are also stricter when it comes to ensuring the safety of trailers traveling within their jurisdiction. Most, for instance, would require you trailer to have backup safety chains, brake lights, and turn signals.

These are accessories that fulfill specific purposes that ultimately increase road safety, after all. Other towing requirements that vary in each state include weight (since it’s closely related to braking) and the dimensions of the trailer. The average height of the trailer should not exceed 13 to 14 feet and shouldn’t go beyond 8 feet in terms of width.

It’s also essential in virtually every state in the US for a trailer’s license plate to have proper lighting in order for it be easily seen.

Trailer Towing Tips to Keep in Mind

Always make sure to check the lights

Be mindful of the parts of your trailer that are considered as bare necessities, especially the taillights, license plate lights, and brake lights.

Having properly working brake lights do well in preventing a lot rear collisions. Tail lights, on the other hand, are always important for better visibility at night, which is arguably very vital for towing trailers.

Know your trailer better

From its exact height, length, and width, being aware of your trailer’s exact dimensions will help you avoid potential accidents while on the road.

Width and length are obvious factors, but it’s surprising how often many drivers underestimate their trailer’s height when they’re in tight quarters.

It’s equally important to familiarize yourself with how the trailer naturally follows your vehicle. Oftentimes, trailers are easy to drive but you may have to be extra careful when performing turns (especially sharper ones) or when backing up.

The latter is especially challenging, and it’s often recommended to practice it first. Most experts will advice to think ahead and limit situations that would require you to back up a trailer at all.

Practice better braking

Most trailer drivers have to anticipate a longer stopping distance every time they decide to brake. This is why it’s also preferred that drivers keep a farther distance between their trailers and vehicles in front of them.

How fast you’re going also plays a huge role in braking, which is why a lot of states have enforced a towing speed limit of exactly 45 mph.

Heavier trailers even have to be fitted with trailer brakes to make up for the excess weight.

Trailer brakes tend to be far more unpredictable than vehicle brakes, though, especially if they aren’t serviced. It’s extremely important to make fresh, clean brakes a priority.

Saltwater boat trailers can have the most challenging brakes to maintain. Few things are worse for brakes than a regular saltwater dip.

Moral of the story: Trailer brakes are necessary and helpful, but you’ll always be safer if you don’t count on them. Give yourself more time to stop than you think you’ll need, especially with a heavy load.

Vinyl wraps are extremely customizable, giving you a ability to design the graphics to your unique tastes. A new wrap gives your boat a clean and sleek look that turns heads. It will also serve as a line of defense, protecting your gelcoat and paint from the elements.

This quick guide will give you all of the info you need to make sure you pay the right amount for your wrap. We’ve also included some key mistakes to avoid when you’re choosing the right installer.

How Much Does a Boat Wrap Cost?

The cost of vinyl boat wrap starts at about $1,400 for a 14-foot boat and scales from there. The cost will increase depending on boat size, boat type, wrap size, and the level of detail in the wrap.

Generally, wrapping your boat costs a only fraction of what it takes to paint it. The average estimate vinyl boat wrap is priced at about a third of the cost to repaint. This makes it an appealing option for older boats that need a facelift but may not be worth the cost of a complete rehab.

Check with your vinyl installers for accurate quotes and don’t forget to keep in mind the cost you’ll need to pull your boat from the water and transport it to the installer.

Here are the main factors that will contribute to the final cost:

#1 Boat Size

It’s the most significant factor that determines your boat wrap cost. The larger the boat, the more you’ll spend to undertake the exercise.

Many wrap installers will base their quotation on feet and not square footage. The earlier example of a 14′ boat wrap being around $1,400 is just a ballpark.

#2 Boat Type

Other than size, the type of your boat also matters. Is it a bass boat, cabin cruiser, or a speed boat? The type of boat plays a critical role in pricing because of the contours, complexity of the wrapping process and the amount of wrap it needs.

Think about in terms of wrapping a gift. If your gift is in a rectangular or regular shape, wrapping will be relatively easy. However, if your gift is in an irregular shape, the crevices and corners can make the wrapping exercise difficult. The same concept applies to boats.

For example, an 18-foot catamaran may cost around $2,400 for a comprehensive wrap. Wrapping an 18-foot center console fishing boat may cost you around $1,800. Applying vinyl wrap on 24-foot speedboat may cost you $3,000 and above.

Remember, vinyl has specific width measurements. Having a bigger boat will cost you more to wrap.

#3 Wrap Detail & Design

Do you want to a full or partial wrap on your boat? The size of your wrap determines the vinyl boat wrap cost. For instance, if you’re wrapping half of your boat, then the price will be half the cost of a full wrap. The exact numbers can vary from installer to installer, but it’s usually a common-sense calculation.

But what exactly is a partial wrap? A partial wrap helps cover some parts of your boat instead of the entire hull. In most cases, its design flows with the contours of your hull. Again, the amount to pay is dependent on the wrap size and the entire size of your boat.

You need to also consider whether you’ll be wrapping your boat in a single color or with full graphics? Many boat owners choose a single-color vinyl wrap to emulate a paint job that looks new. Others prefer to spice things up by adding designs, graphics, logos, etc.

Most companies will choose graphics to promote their business values or personalities.

Installing a single wrap color is cheaper than one with graphic designs. But the cost varies depending on the expert you engage. So, check with your local installer for details. With many installers, you’ll get both custom and stock options. Even better, you can design your signature look online.

#4 Quality of Wrap

Wrapping your boat is an investment that should deliver returns on your investment. Be sure to engage a competent installer for your project, whether on a full or partial wrap.

Using a reputable installer for your project ensures you get the best possible services. The good thing, you can get a list of qualified installers on vinyl manufacturer’s websites.

Also, many professional installers will promote their services as certified installers who’ve been favored by various vinyl manufacturers. Look for this designation and recommendation on their websites before engaging them to give yourself a bit more peace of mind.

How Long Will a Boat Wrap Last?

It’s common to see many vinyl boat wraps rated for 5-7 years, but those numbers should be taken with a grain of salt. Like all things involving boats and the sea, a vinyl boat wrap will not last forever. The elements take their toll the same way they do on everything else.

Sun exposure is a wrap’s main enemy. It really doesn’t matter how high-quality the vinyl is, the sun will eventually do damage. Storing a boat out of the reach of the sun’s constant rays is often the difference between a wrap lasting 2-3 years or 5+ years. Vinyl left in the sun will often be structurally sound, but completely lacking its original coloring.

Abrasions, water, and time will all play their parts in the degradation of a wrap as well. The best thing you can do to preserve your work is to avoid hard, sharp edges around the vinyl and avoid harsh chemicals that have the potential to strip the adhesive right off.

Is a DIY Boat Wrap a Good Idea?

Boat owners that are particularly handy may scoff at the idea of paying for a vinyl wrap service, knowing that they can do the work for a fraction of a professional’s price tag.

Exercise some caution though before you make a final judgment. The act of applying a vinyl wrap to a boat hull is more of an art than you may think. Many of the most skilled men I know have decided against a DIY vinyl wrap after a full evaluation of the project’s difficulty.

If you do decide to pull the trigger on a DIY wrap, make sure you approach the job with an extra dose of patience. This is something that requires a slow, methodical pace. Ask yourself if this is really, truly something you want to be spending a large chunk of (potentially frustrating) time on.

You’ll also need a helper or two for certain parts of the job like initial laying up and again when you remove the backing. Not a problem if you have some free help on-hand.

Conclusion

Hopefully this gives you a good starting point for determining what it will cost you to put a quality vinyl wrap on your boat. It’s not the most simple process in the world, but it’s well worth it under the right circumstances.

If you want to take your boat rejuvenation it a step further, you should also consider Sea Dek (or take a look at our reviews of the best Sea Dek alternatives).

Let us know what kind of experience you’ve had with wrapping your boat. We’d love to know what it cost and whether or not you’re happy with the final result. And don’t hesitate to share some pictures!

Converting jon boats into bass boats has really taken off in popularity over the last few years. And for good reason! It’s totally possible to DIY your way into an extremely fishable rig for a fraction of the price you’d pay for a name-brand bass boat.

The possibilities and customization options are endless, but there are some important things to think about before you start.

These tips and tricks will give you the help you need to start planning the perfect jon boat to bass boat project.

#1  Choose a Wide Jon Boat Hull for Your Base

The most important piece of the conversion project is the jon boat itself. Choosing the right size hull is extremely important and will make it much easier for you to achieve a final result that you’ll be satisfied with.

Everything you do from start to finish revolves around your base jon boat, so you may as well choose a wide one that affords you the most freedom. Too narrow and you’ll bottleneck the whole operation.

Try to aim for a jon boat that is at least 48″ wide. This is a good minimum width if you’re looking to install decking onto the boat. Sure, you can still deck a jon boat that is under 48″ wide, but it will almost certainly be much more difficult and possibly unsafe.

A boat with a narrow width will almost always have a number of issues during the conversion process. First of all, you simply won’t have enough room for buildout. Second, and more importantly, a narrow hull will be very unstable when a deck is installed.

 The last thing you want to do is go through the trouble of building an awesome setup, only to find out that it’s unstable to the point of being dangerous when a deck has been installed. You may not realize it when you’re sitting down, but you’ll quickly find out upon standing that a narrow boat feels terribly unstable in the water.

The wider, the better. You really can’t go too wide with this project as long as you’re using a reliable hull.

#2  Don’t Use a Low Quality or Damaged Hull

It should go without saying that a jon boat to bass boat conversion should always be done with a quality, reliable hull, but we’ve seen this be an issue more than once. You’re going to spend a lot of time and energy on this project and you don’t want to waste it on something that won’t last.

Most jon boats aren’t purposefully built to handle this sort of project. By their nature, they are lightweight boats that aren’t intended to handle heavy weights or heavy use. This doesn’t mean that a conversion is always a bad idea. It simply means that you need to take extra care to choose a hull that can handle the extra construction that comes when you turn it into a heavier rig.

If you’re buying a new hull for your project, buy the sturdiest one you can afford. Go for a heavier hull made from quality aluminum.

If you’re going with a used hull, do a full, honest inspection long before you start any construction. You’ll want to totally strip the hull down to brass-tacks in order to thoroughly check it out. Look for rust, holes, weak spots, rotted wood, etc and make any necessary repairs on the front end. If these repairs are outside of your handiness, call in the pros for this step.

Turning a jon boat into a functional bass boat is hard work as it is. Don’t risk your work, your money, or your safety with a hull that won’t handle the stress you’re going to put on it.

Even though you may save a little bit of money starting off with a cheap hull, you’ll thank yourself later if you spend a little extra to start with a solid foundation.

#3  Avoid Pressure Treated Wood

Pressure treated wood is a godsend for many things, but this project is not one of them. Unfortunately, the chemicals used on pressure treated wood are not very compatible with aluminum jon boats.

The chemicals in pressure treated wood cause negative reactions when they meet aluminum. This can result in corrosion and even pitting in the aluminum, weakening or even ruining your hull.

Copper is the main culprit in the wood, but there can be other harmful chemicals as well.

It’s worth noting that newer pressure treated wood is considered to have less of a detrimental effect on aluminum. Even so, most experienced boat builders will recommend that you’re still better off to avoid it completely.

There are ways to create a barrier between the wood and the aluminum, but it’s very difficult to ensure 100% success. Water will almost certainly find it’s way to the wood, taking some chemicals with it as it eventually makes contact with the aluminum.

The bottom line is that you’re almost always better off to avoid pressure treated wood when you’re dealing with an aluminum boat. Even though there are ways to implement it successfully, it’s very difficult and there’s always a chance that you’ll eventually encounter problems.

#4  Use Aluminum for Your Framing

This tip is totally dependent on how handy you are, so go ahead and skip ahead if you’re not 100% comfortable working with aluminum.

For those who know how to build with aluminum, it is definitely the ideal material for constructing your jon-to-bass framework.

The main benefit to using aluminum is reduced weight. Aluminum is a good deal lighter than wood. When you’re dealing with light jon boats, any weight reduction possible is a good idea.

Aluminum also holds up better over time than wood. Non-treated wood soaks up water. This makes it heavier and susceptible to mold, mildew, and rotting.  We’ve already covered the negative impacts that can come as a result of mixing pressure treated wood with aluminum, so it’s no surprise that we would choose aluminum as the optimal choice.

Done right, aluminum framing will give you a long-lasting, light build that is strong enough to withstand heavy use.

#5  Mount Your Decks at the Proper Height

Choosing the right height for deck placement is extremely important for overall stability. You’ll spend quite a bit of time standing and fishing on these decks, so it pays to get it right. The higher your deck, the less stable it will be when you stand.

Hull style and individual preferences both play a role here, but there are some general guidelines for optimal placement.

For jon boats that are 50″ wide and under, plan for decks that are no higher than the bench seats.

For boats that are 60″ to 70″ wide, plan for decks that are about midway between the bench seats and the gunnels.

For boats that are over 72″ wide, decks can be installed flush to the gunnels while remaining stable. Stability is not a problem with any jon boat of this width. It will absolutely be the most comfortable to stand on no matter where you place your decks.

Now, there are plenty of cases where someone has installed flush decks on a 48″ hull without feeling that it was too unstable. It’s just very uncommon to feel stable while standing up that high on a jon boat that narrow.

These numbers are simply a good starting place for deciding your deck height. You also need to factor in things like your weight and physical capability. It’s a lot easier to work with high decks on a narrow boat if you’re light and have great balance.

#6  Choose the Correct Metal Hardware

Whether you’re dealing with hinges, bolts, or anything else, it’s important to make sure that you’re choosing the correct hardware for your project.

The important thing to consider is durability. Don’t cheap out on your hardware. Protect your boat and yourself with heavy-duty hinges and appropriately sized hardware everywhere else.

You also need to take extra care in selecting the type of metal you use for your hardware. Since your jon boat hull is aluminum, not every kind of metal will do.

The wrong metal will negatively react with the aluminum. This causes galvanic corrosion. Galvanic corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals are brought under electrical contact underwater, causing the metals’ corrosion rates to change. The weaker metal (the aluminum, in this case) will corrode faster than it would have otherwise.

The best course of action is to use high-quality aluminum hardware on most things, saving stainless steel or other more durable metals for the places where they are most needed for structural integrity.

The severity and impact of galvanic corrosion is often a point of debate among DIY boat builders, but it is definitely a real factor to consider for the long run. You may go years without a problem, but certain metals will eventually react negatively with aluminum under the right circumstances.

It’s still possible to use a dissimilar metal with your aluminum hull, but, at the very least, make sure to use a sealant to protect one from the other. This is perfectly fine if done properly.

#7  Don’t Skimp on Proper Electrical Work

This will be short and sweet: If you know your way around electrical wiring, you’re good to go. But if you don’t know the first thing about it, seek some professional help.

Even though it’s not rocket science to wire your jon boat like a bass boat, there are potential pitfalls all throughout the process.

For those doing their own wiring, floating your electric system is the best way to go with an aluminum boat. You absolutely do not want your hull to be a part of the system if you want to avoid extra galvanic corrosion.

#8  Use Marine Carpet

There are plenty of cheap carpeting options out there, but it’s always better to spend a little bit more to get the right materials. Marine carpet is made to withstand the rigors of boating and fishing.

Try to choose a carpet that is high-quality and durable, but won’t easily catch lures or other sharp objects. Some carpets have lots of fluffy fibers that catch on everything and make your life more difficult.

There are other non-marine carpets out there that are okay to use, but make sure you’ve done your research before you buy. Don’t weak-link your boat with carpeting that will tear up in the first few months of use.

#9  Don’t Go Overboard with Electronics

A jon boat to bass boat conversion is meant to be cost-effective and simple, so you’re better off to avoid loading your boat down with every piece of marine electronics known to man.

The obvious reason to avoid too many electronics is that you’ll need more battery power. That means more weight on your boat. Space aboard your boat will also be at a premium, so there’s no need to clutter it up too much with wires all over the place.

If you have a console, try to stick with a good trolling motor setup, GPS/fishfinder, and one or two other features.

#10  Try Not to be a Perfectionist

There’s a big difference between doing a good job and being too focused on perfection. One will give you a good, satisfying final product. The other will frustrate you while costing way too much time and money.

Again, this type of project is meant to keep things simple. Overcomplicating things by nitpicking every minor detail can end up doubling the overall cost of your project both in time and in money.

Decide before you start that you’re going to do the best job possible without driving yourself crazy. Remind yourself that the little things you get hung up on are likely things that no one would notice but you.

#11  Don’t be Afraid to Seek Outside Help

No matter how handy you are, there’s always something that you’ll struggle with. Sometimes you don’t even know you’ve struggled until the project is finished and you find out that you missed something.

A fresh set of eyes on your project is often the best thing for it. It’s easy to develop tunnel vision when you’ve been focusing on the details of your boat for hours and hours. A friend or a professional may notice an important addition or modification right away.

It never hurts to get an outside perspective or opinion, even when you think you already have it all figured out.

Conclusion

These tips should give you plenty to consider and help to jump start your project. Just take it one step at a time and don’t get overwhelmed before you’ve even begun.

Converting a jon boat to a bass boat is a very rewarding project if it’s done the right way. You’ll spend a lot of time, a lot of labor, and a little bit of money to get the job done, but it will be totally worth it in the end.

Let us know if you have any other tips or suggestions! And make sure to show us your finished product!

That’s why I put together a quick list of the bass boat brands that I consider to be the best. From top to bottom, these are the first brands I would consider in today’s market.

Obviously, there’s quite a bit of controversy when it comes to picking favorites. Don’t take any one ranking here as gospel. Everyone has different needs and I really do believe that every brand listed here has something to offer the right fisherman.

Without further ado…

#1  Ranger

The Ranger name carries a lot of weight in the world of bass boats. They’re one of the legends in the industry and for good reason- they make an outstanding product.

It’s not at all a stretch to say that Ranger’s hand-laid hulls may be the best out there. No surprise, as a quality hand-laid hull will almost always beat out a chopped hull. They are extremely durable and reliable for the long haul. I’ve spent a ton of time on Ranger boats and I’ve never been disappointed.

Here’s a quick clip of one of their flagship 2521L models on the water:

Not too shabby, to say the least.

Ranger hulls are also at the head of the class for stability in rough water. The ride is smooth in all but the worst conditions. If there’s any knock at all on Ranger hulls, it’s that they tend to be slightly heavier and a touch slower than some of the faster boats out there. In my opinion, that’s a worthy trade-off for the quality you get.

Fishability is also top-notch with any Ranger bass boat. They shape and layout is generally as good as it gets. That goes for almost any model you choose. The customization options are endless and it’s no problem to get a Ranger decked out with anything and everything you could possibly want.

It’s also worth noting that resale value on a Ranger is always very good.

Finally, Ranger customer service is wonderful. I can personally attest, as I have a Ranger bay boat in the family. Ranger has always been a pleasure to deal with and they’ve always stood 100% behind their product.

If you’ve got the cash to spend, a Ranger is always going to be a very solid investment.

#2  Bass Cat

Bass Cat is a brand that many bass fishermen swear by. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard someone say that “Once you have a Bass Cat, you’ll never have anything else.”

Overall, Bass Cat builds a boat that is right up there with Ranger in quality, but they do it within a smaller, more personal operation. This is a big selling point, as the customer service side of Bass Cat is probably the best in the business.

Here’s a video from Bass Cat. It does a good job of showcasing the features on their Jaguar model, my personal favorite boat in their lineup.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAR1vZXBmNk

No matter what model you go with, a Bass Cat is going to ride and handle like a dream. The hull designs are purpose-built and feel great in the water. Comfort in rough water is something that Bass Cat excels at.

Compared to Ranger, Bass Cat boats definitely have a superior ride, while Ranger still wins out on maximum fishability and deck size. You can still outfit a Bass Cat with just about anything you want though with extra equipment and accessories. It’s just a little tighter when you’re actually on the deck fishing.

If you’re looking for a high-quality, insanely-good-riding bass boat with impeccable customer service, Bass Cat knocks it out of the park.

#3  Legend

All-in-all, Legend makes one of the best all-around boats on the market. The fit and finish is as good as it gets and the attention to detail is outstanding. Even the smallest components of a Legend are held to a very high standard.

In the water, Legend hulls are some of the most stable. The handling at high speeds is something that is noticeably better than what you find in most other manufacturers. I’ve seen a few guys that (not that I’d recommend it) have put their hands in their pockets while doing 70+ in a Legend. Anyone who has ever driven an average bass boat knows that it takes some guts to do that at high speeds unless your running is extremely stable.

Legend deck layout is really wide, making it very fishable. It’s pretty much on-par with Ranger in this regard. You’ll always have a lot of room to stand, big livewells, and plenty of storage.

Just like the other top boat brands on this list, Legend’s customer service is great. Legend owners love their boats and they are a pretty loyal bunch. I’m not sure I’ve ever heard heard anything negative from but Legend owners owners dealings with the company.

#4  Skeeter

If you want to haul $#@ in your bass boat, then you’ll fit right in with the average Skeeter owner. Whether or not they are the fastest hull on the market, the general theme around the community is that Skeeters are meant to be pushed.

From my experience, their reputation has always held up. I’ve been on both Skeeter bass boats and bay boats- they’ve always been blazing fast. The ride is also pretty darn good for such a fast hull. They’re also pretty stable, considering.

Skeeter build quality is pretty much in line with most upper-tier bass boats, even if it’s not quite at the level of the earlier entries. Personally, I consider a Skeeter to fall in a nice middle ground between performance and quality.

Customer service is also pretty solid, but it’s still behind the industry leaders.

#5  Nitro

Nitro is probably the highest-volume bass boat out there. They are known for building a solid boat that gives you a lot of bang for your buck.

A Nitro hull does a decent job of almost everything. There’s not really any one area where it struggles. That said, there’s not really any area where it blows the competition out of the park. The performance matches up very well with the price- right in the middle of the pack. Layout, equipment options, ride, and general fishability is all average to above-average in just about every Nitro model.

If there are gripes with Nitro, they are generally directed at one of two things- fit and fish or customer service. Neither of these are awful, but they are definitely well behind what you’ll find with other brands on this list.

Still, Nitro is a very good option for anyone who wants an affordable bass boat that will perform adequately in almost every area.

Conclusion

Chances are good that this list will stir up some controversy. I recommend using it less as a definitive guide and more of a starting point for your research. You’ll find plenty of anglers out there that own each one of these brands and absolutely love them.

Not everyone is looking for the same type of boat and priorities fall all across the spectrum. Some folks can’t imagine going with anything but the most stable, durable hull. Some can’t imagine not having the fasted boat on the lake. Whether you’re looking for maximum durability or the ability to pass other boats like they’re sitting still, I’m confident that you’ll find what you’re looking for in at least one of these brands.

So, now that you’ve made it this far, let us know which brand you like best. I’m sure there will be more than one owner who wants to let us know that we made a mistake by leaving out their choice!

And be sure to tell us if you end up with one of the brands listed here!

It’s absolutely worth it to have a well-made gaff on every boat. There are simply far too many fishing scenarios that call for one and it pays to be prepared with the right tool for the job.

I’ve found that there are a lot of options out there and a surprising lack of information. That’s why I decided to write this short guide to my favorite type of gaff and why it makes the most sense for every style of fishing.

Our Top Pick – Kill Fish All Natural Calcutta Bamboo Gaff

• Price: (Click to check current price on Amazon)
• Length: 3′, 4′, 6′
• Shaft Material: Calcutta Bamboo
• Hook: Heat-treated, double-pronged stainless steel

I never thought I’d be overly excited about a gaff. Then I came across one of these a while back and immediately loved it. You’re not going to find a better gaff anywhere. Kill Fish Company has built what I believe is hands-down the best gaff on the market, especially for the price.

Kill Fish imports real-deal Calcutta bamboo to build this product here in the USA. They go the extra mile in treating and completing the bamboo shaft to give you the perfect grip and leverage. It also looks great, but that’s just a bonus. They have sizes that will fit anyone’s needs. Kayak fishermen will be glad to know that the 3′ length that comes with a wrist strap.

The hook is equally awesome. Rather than just throw on some mass-produced third-party hook, Kill Fish changed the game and created their own. They built a hook that is essentially a stainless-steel spear shaft, bent into shape and heat-treated. It won’t rust and it’s ridiculously strong. To top it off, they welded a second prong to the hook. This makes it far more secure than anything else and eliminates any chance that it will spin loose.

Last but not least, Kill Fish Co. is an awesome company owned by guys who love to fish. When you buy one of their products, you’re getting something that was custom-designed and hand-crafted by people who love and understand fishing. They sell their products on Amazon, so you get the best of both worlds- small business craftmanship and care with the convenience of the world’s most efficient marketplace.

The value really is outstanding. I’ve seen guys custom-make inferior Calcutta bamboo gaffs and sell them online for more than double the price.

Here’s another link to the gaff on Amazon – (Kill Fish Co. Calcutta Bamboo Gaff)

If you’re still on the fence, you probably won’t be after watching this video featuring Kill Fish Co’s co-founder Kevin Fortmeyer:

Benefits of a Calcutta Bamboo Gaff – One Gaff to Rule Them All

Most fishermen have probably laid eyes on a bamboo gaff at one point or another. They’re a common fixture on many an offshore vessel, commercial and recreational alike.

At first glance, you’d probably assume that they aren’t as effective as an aluminum or fiberglass gaff. That’s really not true at all. A good bamboo gaff will perform extremely well and outlast many comparable metal gaffs

There’s also a style-factor involved. Whether or not hardcore fishermen will admit it, there’s an undeniably cool look and feel to a handmade bamboo gaff. A well-made, handcrafted bamboo gaff is just as much a workhorse as it is a work of art.

Calcutta Bamboo is Extremely Strong

The tensile strength of Calcutta bamboo is amazing. Calcutta is far thicker than most other types of bamboo and it’s almost unbreakable. You can flex it just enough without worrying that it won’t snap itself right back into form. This isn’t the case for many other gaffs. Bend a metal gaff and it’s probably going to be stuck that way.

It’s borderline impossible to break Calcutta bamboo within the bounds of normal use. The average person would have an extremely tough time exerting enough force to split it.

Keep in mind that I’m making sure to note that we’re talking about “Calcutta” bamboo here. Other types of bamboo don’t compare and I wouldn’t recommend them for any type of heavy fishing use.

Calcutta is a species of bamboo native to South Asia. It has been commonly used throughout history in everything from house frames to concrete reinforcement to lance shafts for the British army. Landing a fish is comparatively light work compared to those things.

It Will Always Float

Yeah, this seems like a simple thing that all gaffs should accomplish, but you’d be surprised. There are tons of gaffs out there that don’t float at all, which is just impractical for 99% of fishing applications. It’s not a matter of when your gaff will go overboard, it’s when.

A bamboo gaff will come right back up to the surface the moment it releases from a fish. Some metal gaffs will float for just a second before they fill up with water, but a bamboo gaff is buoyant enough to hold itself up. Hook size really doesn’t matter and there’s really nothing out there big enough to pull down a normal-sized Calcutta bamboo shaft.

It Will Last A Very Long Time

We all know the effect that salt has on your fishing equipment. Metal gaffs are no exception and that’s why bamboo is a refreshing option.

Aside from the hook (which shouldn’t be a problem either as long as it’s high-quality steel), bamboo is essentially salt-proof. The construction is so simple and it involves only a few materials like bamboo, cord, and maybe some type of adhesive compound. If you take care of it by giving it the occasional rinse and storing it somewhere out of the sun, a bamboo gaff will outlast plenty of those made out of metal.

Kayak fishermen will especially appreciate a bamboo gaff. No matter how you slice it, gear in a kayak gets wet more often than gear in a big boat. A bamboo shaft will handle regular salt baths a lot better than options with metal components.

It’s Just Way Cooler Than A Metal Gaff

I don’t care who you are or what you have on your boat, there’s something to the old-school look and feel of a natural bamboo gaff. They make plain-Jane West Marine gaffs look like crude substitutes.

Every Calcutta bamboo gaff I’ve ever seen has been handmade and high-quality. The work that goes into making one isn’t overly complicated, but it takes a level of skill. You know when you see one that they put a little more “art” into what would typically be a standard, boring piece of equipment that you stash somewhere in your boat.

There is a great debate is over which system is the best. Both the Power Pole and Minn Kota systems offer a ton of upside whether you’re hardcore fishing or just recreationally boating with the family, but there are some big differences between the two.

I spent some time testing products, doing research, and talking with the experts in order to create the best possible resource for buyers. The goal was to get all of the pros and cons in one place with all of the details. I use Power Pole myself, but I’ve continued to look at Talons every year to see how they’ve come along.

So let’s settle this once and for all. Or just pour more fuel on the debate!

Power Pole or Minn Kota Talon? – The Short Answer

A Power Pole is best for saltwater use by boaters who don’t have limited space within their boat. A Minn Kota Talon is best for freshwater use by boaters who have limited space or want to easily remove the unit to use on another boat. Overall, Power Pole is usually the best overall choice.

That’s the extra-abbreviated recommendation for anyone who is looking for the short and sweet. There’s obviously a lot more info and nuance to this comparison, so read on!

You’ll find both units’ features broken down and detailed below. For convenience, we’ve broken down the comparison in a handful of categories. All of the categories were chosen for their importance to the overall use of the two systems.

Note: This comparison was built with each brand’s flagship 10ft model in mind, but all of the info here is relevant across the board from model to model.

Power Pole General Specifications

• Price: (Click here to check current 10ft Power Pole Blade price on Amazon)
• Motor Type: Hydraulic
• Depth Ranges (Across All PP Models): 4′, 6′, 8′, 10′

Minn Kota Talon General Specifications

• Price: (Click here to check current 10ft Minn Kota Talon price on Amazon)
• Motor Type: Electric
• Depth Range: 8′, 10′, 12′, 15′

Deployment

Winner: Power Pole

Deployment is the first and biggest difference between Power Poles and Talons. Power Poles are deployed in a fold-out manner that extends the entire unit down behind the boat. Talons are deployed straight down while the outer casing of the unit remains in a fixed position.

Here’s a video that gives you several good views of the Power Pole style deployment in action:

We prefer Power Pole’s deployment style for a couple of reasons. First of all, once you deploy a Power Pole, it’s in the water and out of your way. You can walk around without the unit getting in your way while you’re trying to cast or do anything else in the back of the boat. It also simply looks nicer to get the unit out of your view while you’re anchored up.

The second reason we prefer Power Pole’s deployment is that, when it’s down, you know it’s down. You may wonder what we mean by that. It’s simple- a deployed Power Pole moves the entire unit, while a deployed Talon only moves the unit’s secondary stages and looks exactly the same as an undeployed Talon.

Here’s a video from Minn Kota that shows you how their system works:

You can see how the vertical deployment leaves the Talon’s first stage in a position that looks the exact same as it does when it’s not deployed. This isn’t the end of the world, but it’s inconvenient for two big reasons. The most obvious reason is that it’s always in your way. The second reason isn’t as obvious, but it’s just as important.

Since a deployed/undeployed Talon looks the same from inside the boat, it’s easier to make the mistake of trying to drive off while it’s still stuck in the ground. Minn Kota makes an effort to solve this with an indicator light on top of the unit and with an optional alarm that can be wired into your boat. The problem is that the light can be sometimes hard to see in bright daylight and the alarm, like all boat-related products, is hard to trust by itself.

If you make the mistake of taking off with a Power Pole still deployed, it will raise up. Make that same mistake with a Talon and you could be looking at some costly damage to the unit or to your fiberglass. I’ve heard a few firsthand accounts of folks who had to do fiberglass repairs after Talon mishaps. Mistakes happen to the best of us, so it’s always worth considering.

Holding Power

Winner: Draw

Honestly, there’s really not a big difference one way or another in holding power from a Power Pole to a Talon. Both do a good job of keeping you held into place.

Testing each unit led to very similar outcomes and talking with the pros did too, so this is one area that you shouldn’t spend a lot of time worrying about. Either option will dig in and hold you where you want to be. Of course, some people swear that one holds better than the other, but it’s a coin flip at best from our experiences.

Now, this doesn’t take into account the length of the anchor. If you’re looking for the deepest possible shallow water anchor, Talon wins. Their multi-stage design has made it easy for them to offer a few longer options for anchoring in deeper water.

No matter what you choose, you can usually expect for your system to adequately hold in about 1′ to 2′ less water than what the unit measures in at. For example, an 8′ Power Pole will likely struggle at anchoring in 8′ of water, but it should have a very good hold in 6′ or 7′ of water.

In terms of straight-up depth performance, the 15′ Talon is about an absolute beast.

Reliability

Winner: Power Pole

Reliability is the most important equipment factor for a lot of boaters. Boats have enough issues as is and no one wants another piece of equipment regularly breaking down. The less required maintenance, the better.

Power Pole wins the reliability contest pretty easily. This is mostly due to the Power Pole’s hydraulic system versus the Talon’s electric system. This is an even bigger factor in saltwater environments.

Saltwater boating veterans are well aware of the headaches created when you mix electronics and salt. Even though the Talon’s design is pretty solid, it still can’t really compete with the operating efficiency of the Power Pole’s hydraulics. The pumps that operate the PP will fail a lot less than an electric motor.

Adding to Power Pole’s reliability advantage is that the Talon’s secondary stages retract pretty snugly back into the main stage. This makes it more difficult to keep the Talon clean when the gunk and grime finds its way into every nook and cranny.

Weight

Winner: Power Pole

Power Pole wins the weight battle against Talon with every comparable model. The internal mechanisms of Talon units are quite a bit heavier than those of the hydraulic-based Power Pole.

If weight is a determining factor for your setup, Power Pole is the clear choice. The 8ft Power Pole Pro II Series is an especially light option, coming in at just over 26lbs. It’s also a bit cheaper than the Blade.

Space & Installation

Winner: Talon

In boats with limited space (bass boats are a good example), Talons excel. This is due to their lack of hydraulic pumps. Pretty much everything in a Talon system is self-contained within the unit. That’s one of the major benefits of having electrical components.

Installing a Power Pole means that you have to find some space to install its pump system. Not a problem on many boats, but it can be an issue if you’re already low on space.

In addition to saving you space with a lack of pumps, a Talon’s self-contained system allows you to easily pull the entire system off of your boat when you don’t need it. This also means that it’s very simple to use one Talon on multiple boats by simply switching it over. That’s huge for a lot of boaters.

Noise

Winner: Talon

A comparable Talon will always be somewhat quieter than a comparable Power Pole. That just comes with the territory when comparing electronic operation to hydraulic pumps.

Noise isn’t a big deal in most applications, but it can sometimes be frustrating for fishing scenarios that call for as much silence as possible.

I wouldn’t recommend letting the noise factor make your decision for you either way. Worst case, you can always turn down the speed of a Power Pole to make it as quiet as a Talon. Sacrificing some speed won’t matter much 99% of the time.

Customer Service

Winner: Power Pole

Customer service is one area that I can confidently say that Power Pole wins in a landslide. It’s not even that Minn Kota has bad customer service, it’s that Power Pole customer service is simply that good.

Seriously, it’s borderline impossible to talk to a handful of Power Pole owners without hearing them sing the praises of the customer service portion of the business.

I’ve heard countless stories of owners experiencing a problem, calling Power Pole, and receiving replacement pieces free of charge. Now, I’m not suggesting that having a Power Pole means having access to an infinite amount of free stuff, but I am saying that it’s far more likely to happen than with Minn Kota. The Power Pole people are just very dedicated to standing behind their product.

That kind of customer service is a godsend to anyone who knows what it’s like to own and maintain a boat. Things are going to break and it’s no fun to battle with a company’s customer service department when they do.

Power Pole Pros & Cons

Pros:

• Less obstructive when deployed
• Easier to know when it’s deployed
• More reliable, especially in saltwater
• Lighter system
• Outstanding Customer Service

Cons:

• Hydraulic pumps take up more space
• Harder to install
• Noisier than a comparable Talon

Minn Kota Talon Pros & Cons

Pros:

• Electrical system takes up less space by eliminating pumps
• Easy to move from boat to boat
• Easy to remove from boat when not needed
• Quieter than a comparable Power Pole
• Offers models that are deeper than comparable Power Poles

Cons:

• Less reliable than a Power Pole overall
• Electrical system is more susceptible to saltwater damage
• Heavy

Conclusion

This comparison should cover most of the basic details necessary to start coming to a conclusion on what works best for your boat. There are good reasons to use either option, depending on your personal needs and preferences.

Overall, we feel that a Power Pole is the superior choice for the vast majority of boaters. They really do an awesome job of performing well while taking some serious abuse. Add in the industry-leading customer service, and it’s an easy call for most. Just a really solid product all around.

Though we recommend Power Pole first, we wouldn’t at all suggest that Minn Kota makes a bad product with the Talon. If you’re limited on space or you’d like to use a single system on more than one boat, the Talon can still make a lot of sense. They also seem to get a little better with each new model.

Let us know what you think! No matter which one you go with, we’d love to know how you made your decision and how you like it!

But what happens when boaters aren’t satisfied with SeaDek products or pricing? I’ve come to realize that many people don’t really know where else to start looking.

That’s why I recently spent some time taking a look at a handful of other non-skid deck pad companies in order to see how they stack up. My own boat is a good candidate for new traction pads and that led me to take a deeper look at whether or not SeaDek is still the undisputed gold standard of the industry.

My search for the best SeaDek alternatives actually left me pleasantly surprised. Even though I still think SeaDek makes a decent product, there are some really impressive competition out there that can offer some solid bang-for-your-buck.

So, let’s jump into the pad companies that I like best after spending time with the products, doing research, and getting input from owners.

#1. GatorStep

All Around Favorite

Out of all of the pad companies, GatorStep is easily the one that impressed me the most. They create a really functional, good looking product. Also, every GatorStep user that I’ve heard from has expressed that they are pretty thrilled with the company’s customer service. This is nice to know, as customer service is the one area where SeaDek seems to occasionally struggle.

Like SeaDek, GatorStep pads are peel-and-stick sheets. However, there’s one major difference in GatorStep application and it’s awesome for anyone who plans to do their own installation.

GatorStep pads feature a different style of adhesive that allows you to peel off and re-stick the pads down during the installation process. Anyone who has ever installed or watched someone install SeaDek pads knows how tedious it is to make sure they all go on straight. Once you stick a SeaDek pad down, it’s not coming back up.

Once you’ve got the GatorStep pad in the right position, you do a quick lock-in with a rolling pin (or another smooth object). The end result is a pad that is just as secure as a SeaDek pad, but without the stress of potentially ruining your whole project with a permanent misalignment.

GatorStep quality is very good and is right on-par with SeaDek. It definitely feels to be a SeaDek like material. The high-quality of GatorStep makes perfect sense once you learn that they actually do a ton of OEM work for some big name boat manufacturers. You’ll find a lot of their work on some very high-end wake boats.

Customization options are pretty much endless and this is another area in which GatorStep can easily compete with SeaDek. They can do all sorts of patterns, colors, and custom work. The design and ordering process is easy too. They’ll send you a big template in the mail that you use on your boat to get the right measurements.

Of all of the traction pad companies I’ve researched, GatorStep had the most glowing customer service reviews from owners. I heard nothing but good things about how easy it is to work with them.

#2. AquaTraction

Great Durability for Heavy Use

I had actually never heard of AquaTraction until I started doing some research and found quite a few guys who had recently purchased it for their boats. After spending some time digging into their product line, I found a lot to like.

Out of everything else in the industry, AquaTraction may have the best pads for just straight-up dealing with the elements. The material doesn’t seem to expand or contract as much as many others on the market. It also feels denser than SeaDek.

I don’t think it’s a stretch to say that AquaTraction pads are the most rugged-feeling pads I’ve come across. That’s not to say that they aren’t comfortable though, because they seem to be just as comfortable as anything else on the market. They also seem to clean up better than most of the competition. Their closed-cell pads are EPE foam as opposed to most of the market’s EVA foam.

Generally, EPE foam will outperform EVA in almost all areas. Compared to EVA, EPE is higher load-bearing, has better tear resistance, better sound dampening, and it retains its shape better over time.

Lots of happy owners out there seem to agree that this may be the best overall traction pad for heavy-duty fishing.

Customer service is also a big AquaTraction selling point and everyone seems to love dealing with their team. Everything is very personal and customization is very open-ended. If you can think it, they’ll probably create it for you. I’ve seen a lot of unique shapes come from the AquaTraction shop.

All-in-all AquaTraction is a solid company that’s committed to creating a highly functional product. Their core team keeps things personal, but they’re equally capable of delivering pads that can hang with the big boys. After getting familiar with their products, I’m certain that they’ll continue to gain popularity, especially in fishing circles.

#3 BlackTip Jetsports Sheets

Cheap and Effective

If you’re looking for a really good bang for your buck, I have to say that it’s hard to beat BlackTip Jetsports’ product. No, it can’t compete with SeaDek, GatorStep, or AquaTraction in terms of performance, but it’s available at a fraction of the price.

You can order BlackTip Jetsports pad sheets directly from Amazon (Click here to check the current price on Amazon). They’re sold in 39″x78″ peel-and-stick sheets that are very easy to cut into shape.

Before BlackTip, I’d have recommended HydroTurf to most people looking for an inexpensive SeaDek-style pad. Not anymore though. HydroTurf is already fairly inexpensive, but BlackTip sheets are just as good for even less money.

There are quite a few colors and patterns, from solids to camos to diamond-plate. Pretty much everyone will be able to find a color and style that will work on their boat.

Again, as long as you’re not expecting the fit, finish, and customization options of one of the more expensive brands, BlackTip sheets shouldn’t disappoint you. They are a great value and a really good way to spruce up a boat while saving yourself a ton of money.

Conclusion

After a good deal of time and research, I feel pretty confident in recommending these alternatives to anyone who isn’t sold on SeaDek. All of them offer something a little bit different and I feel like all are appropriately priced.

The look and feel of a GatorSteps’ pad is hard to beat for anyone looking for something to rival SeaDek style. Fishermen and anyone who needs maximum durability will find a lot to like with AquaTraction. Last but not least, BlackTip Jetsports’ sheets make your money go a long way.

So, there you have it! Hopefully, this helps some folks narrow down their options and make some decisions. Let us know, especially if you end up going with one of these brands. We’d love to hear how you made your decision and whether or not the product lived up to expectations.

One last thing: If you’re looking to really rejuvenate a boat on a budget, take a look at our post on the cost of vinyl wrapping a boat. Sea Dek-style deck padding and vinyl wraps make a great combo to make an old boat look new.

We got some input from the experts to create this quick guide to checking your outboard’s height. It’s never a perfect science, but there are some very simple ways to put you on the right track.

P.S. – Prop slip can be a major factor here, definitely take a look at our guide to identifying and solving prop slip with your outboard.

Symptoms of an Outboard Mounted Too Low – The Short Answer

An outboard that is mounted too low will limit your boat’s optimal operation. You can often tell that an outboard is too low if you are experiencing sluggish speeds, poor handling, excessive spray, porpoising, or even water pushing up into the cowling.

That’s a very brief, basic accounting of symptoms, but you’ll usually find at least one of these symptoms if your motor is too low. The problem is that none of those symptoms are by themselves precise indicators. We need a little more detail to better find the right outboard height.

How to Know if Your Outboard is Mounted Too Low – A Detailed Guide

Outboard height is tricky, mostly because every hull is different and the same is true of every individual outboard. Optimal mounting positions can vary from boat to boat and it’s not always easy to luck into correct placement with guesswork alone.

Fortunately, there is usually one reliable indicator to tell whether or not your motor is close to the correct mounting height. This indicator is your anti-cavitation plate and its position in relation to your hull.

Anti-cavitation plates can be found on most outboards. They are the flat plates located on almost every outboard’s lower unit. They are a big help to proper boat operation, but they need to be in the right position in order to do their job.

Basically, you want to make sure that your anti-cavitation plate is skiing on the surface of the water when your boat is on-plane at operating speed. The most important factor in making sure this happens is actually where this anti-cavitation plate is located in relation to the bottom of your hull.

Here’s how to make sure that your outboard is at the correct height by using your anti-cavitation plate as a guide:

1. Find a straight edge that is around 8′ to 10′ long. A long 2×4 is perfect for the job.
2. Trim your outboard down and into the proper position.
3. Place your straight edge lengthwise against the underside of your hull, allowing 2′ or 3′ to hang off the back toward your outboard.
4. Check the position of the anti-cavitation plate in relation to the straight edge. The bottom of the plate should be at or above the top of the straight edge.

That’s the quick and easy way to get yourself on track to finding the right outboard mounting height.

Since the goal of your anti-cavitation plate is to prevent surface air from being sucked into your prop, it is designed to be at a certain height. An anti-cavitation plate in the correct position will barely skid on the surface, helping to create a steady flow of water to the prop without the introduction of air. The angle of your hull and the trim of your motor should line up to put the plate in a level position.

List of Common Issues Caused By an Outboard Mounted Too Low

• Inability to achieve top-end speed: A lack of top-end speed can be an obvious indicator, but is hard to discern. It is difficult to determine whether or not you are able to run at your highest potential speed unless you are very familiar with your boat and previously had an outboard mounted at the appropriate height.
• Poor handling: This is another obvious indicator. It’s usually fairly easy to tell whether or not your boat is handling properly. A number of factors can contribute to poor handling, but a low outboard will almost always cause less-than-ideal handling.
• Excessive spray: If your outboard is kicking up an inordinate amount of water, it’s often a tell-tale sign that it’s mounted too low. Some spray is always ok, but it should be smooth. A simple eye test will typically be all it takes to know if you’re in good shape here.
• Porpoising: “Porpoising” occurs when the bow of your boat starts to bounce up and down as you run at a normal speed. This is caused be a handful of factors, but a low-mounted motor is often one of the most common.
• Water pushing up into the outboard cowling: If your motor is so bogged down that you see water making its way into the motor’s cowling during normal operation, your outboard almost certainly needs to be raised.

Conclusion

After reading through this quick guide, you should have a pretty good idea of whether or not not you have your outboard mounted at the correct height. I’ve always found the anti-cavitation plate method to be very reliable in getting me very close to the perfect spot.

If you did conclude that your motor is too low, you should be able to do a quick measurement to get to that perfect spot. Moving up one or two holes on your mounting bracket will do the trick in most situations. If you find that your motor is too low and you’re out of holes on your bracket, it may be time to call in the professionals to handle a bigger job.

Outboard height is one of those things that doesn’t seem like a big deal until you realize what you’ve been missing. There’s a great feel to things when everything is perfectly lined up and your hull/motor work together seamlessly. You’ll know it when it happens, so make sure to test in the water the work you’ve done on land.

Now that you’ve got everything set in the right place, go get on the water! And let us know if this guide improved your boating or if you have any additional tips to offer!